FAQ
“What is detailing?”
Auto detailing is the performance of an extremely thorough cleaning, restoring and protecting of an automobile, both inside and out, to produce a show-quality level of detail. Besides improving the appearance of cars, detailing helps to preserve the car, and thus, increases resale value. Detailing is not the same as a car wash. (later I will explain why most car washes are horrible for your vehicle.)
“Why have my vehicle Detailed?”
Regular detailing reduces the rate of deterioration on your finish and trim. Your vehicle is constantly exposed to industrial fallout, UV exposure, bugs, salt, sand, improper washing techniques, over spray, road grime and so on. All of these elements and contaminants leads to dullness, oxidation and finally peeling of clear coat, and that’s just the paint. UV exposure and the elements dry out your rubber and plastic trim causing it to fade and eventually crack. A vehicle is a pretty significant investment and is worth more when it’s kept in great shape opposed to not.
“How Long does a detail last?”
That depends on a variety of factors such as if the vehicle is garage kept or not or exposed to the elements or not. One of the most common causes of swirls and eventual dullness of paint are improper washing techniques. If your vehicle is subjected to the same conditions and treatment after the detail the imperfections will quickly come back. I’m more than happy to advise my customers on proper maintenance of their vehicles between details or offer any tips you need to keep your vehicle looking great!
“How much do you charge?”
It really depends on what you need done, what your expectations are, and how long it will take. The price is directly calculated by time. I have a rate sheet with base prices but these are to serve as a guide. Many factors determine the price. Obviously a lifted, black, full size pickup, is going to require a lot more time than a small, white compact car. Parents with gold-fish and juicy juice addicted toddlers, pet owners and people that juggle coffee and steering wheels, well those interiors obviously require more work as well. I’m not out to break your bank. Especially in these economic times. Being a full-time firefighter affords me the ability to simply charge a reasonable rate in exchange for PREMIUM, quality work. I can assure you my work is top notch and my prices are fair.
“What makes you different than other detailers?”
There are many detailers out there. Some are great, most are not. Most detailers boast a very low price to attract customers. They make their living off of VOLUME. The downside of that is they must use low grade cheap products to be able to offer such low prices as well as take too many short cuts to save time. When they are “detailing” multiple cars a day there is NO WAY they can be paying your vehicle the level of attention worthy of professional status. Something is being compromised and unfortunately that is QUALITY. They have to put food on the table and make ends meet. I am a full time Firefighter and I support my family with my primary career. I perform this service out of sheer passion and enthusiasm for automobiles. I love finding new products and techniques that perform exceptionally well and then offering them to my customers. I have a personal rule that I will not detail more than one automobile a day whether it takes 3 hours or 8. I give each vehicle the care and attention it needs as if it were my own.
“What’s the difference between a Wax and a Sealant?”
The quick answer is that Carnauba wax is a natural substance harvested from Brazilian palm trees that provides GREAT shine and depth. Sealants are synthetic polymers engineered for paint protection. It has similar characteristics of Carnauba in the form of water beading and shine but it doesn’t have the depth. A good sealant will last 3-6 months opposed to 6-8 weeks for a wax. You can layer up the wax or apply layer of sealant with a layer of wax on top for the best of both worlds. (a procedure I offer) I use waxes that perform well under Florida’s harsh conditions. Durability and shine are what I look for in a good wax. I don’t use liquid waxes because their durability is not as good as paste.
“I bought (or am looking to buy) a sealant package at the dealership….”
My advice is simply DON’T. They greatly embellish on what a sealant is and how long it lasts. They also greatly exaggerate its worth. Some dealers charge upwards of $600 for a “full paint sealant” guaranteed to last a year or more. I’ll gladly provide you the manufacturers contact info for the top 5 paint sealants in the world and they verify that under even moderate conditions a sealant lasts much less time than the dealers boast. And you could buy a bottle for yourself or have me apply it to your vehicle for HUNDREDS less.
“My vehicle is new, why do I need it detailed?”
The goal of the first detail is to properly polish and protect the paint and other surfaces right off the bat to prevent appearance problems in the future. Even as a new vehicle is transported from the factory to the show room, contaminants are already embedded in your paint during transport. A lot of factories use sticky white film to protect your vehicle during transport that leaves a residue. Bottom line is every new car should get a full clay bar treatment and a sealant/wax when it gets home. Trim and rubber should be protected from UV exposure. This puts you on the right track to keeping your car new looking, slowing down the aging process and keeping your overall maintenance detail cost down. The dealership will try to charge you a small fortune for their detail and claim their products will last years. At the Mercedes dealership where I worked years ago, they would charge $650 for a “New Car Detail.” They used Meguiar’s and 3M products (some of the products I use as well) and would pay their detailers $8 bucks an hour. Even domestic auto dealers charge that much and appeal to you to finance it with the car.
“What products do you use?”
I am a fanatic over quality products. Sometimes the best products aren’t the most expensive but unfortunately sometimes they are. Other times “you get what you pay for” applies. As far as paint correction goes my go to product is Menzerna of Germany. Menzerna polishing compounds are used by some of Germany’s top automakers, including Mercedes, and many General Motors plants have begun using Menzerna. Around 2005, Mercedes Benz and other luxury European automakers started using an ultra hard ceramic clear coat on their vehicles. Some domestic automakers started using these same clear coats in 2006. These clear coats are scratch resistant, not scratch proof. Menzerna, a German company with a 100 year history in polish technology, quickly developed a premium line of polishes that could remove scratches, swirls, imperfections and oxidation from these high end cars and leave an even, beautiful finish. These polishes are top of the line and not only perform well on high end finishes but work beautifully on ALL finishes.
Other products I use are select Meguiar’s polishes and cleaners from their professional line. Ultima, Collinite, Optimum Polymer Technology, Wolfgang, Pinnacle, 3M, 303, P21s, Stoner, Folex and others. I’m always on the look out for a well performing product. Last but not least ALL of my products are environmentally safe, and VOC compliant.
“What are swirl marks?”
Swirl marks are the common term used for the faint, web-like micro-abrasions in the top layer of modern clear coat finishes. Swirl marks are most visible in bright sunlight, as their swirl pattern catches light at many different angles. These are usually caused by tiny abrasive dust and dirt particles that do not pre-rinse off when the vehicle is washed by hand or machine, which are then moved along the surface of the paint. The results are hairline scratches. Even when a vehicle is driven, some of these airborne particles can hit portions of the painted surfaces, leaving tiny scratches.
When you run your vehicle through a machine wash those floppy long cloth pads or brushes are taking dirt that they picked up from the last car and scrubbing your paint with it. Then the guy at the end is using the same cloth he used on the last car to wipe your car down, further grinding more dirt into your paint. Its nothing you can see or feel but when your car is dry and out in the sun you will DEFINITELY see the swirls this process leaves.
The biggest thing I do to reduce swirls is to use a TWO BUCKET wash method. Sometimes 3 buckets. The first bucket is clean soapy water. The second bucket is just plain water. A clean wash mitt is placed in the soap and one panel at a time is washed. The mitt is then placed in the clean water and scrubbed with the grit guard at the bottom of the bucket to release all the dirt. It is rung out and again placed in the soapy water. Done properly, after the wash you will notice that the soap bucket is still almost crystal clear! And the rinse bucket has all the dirt. Doing this assures that a clean wash mit is touching your car and not a dirty one. This is how I advise EVERYONE to wash a vehicle. It really doesn’t add more time at all and it helps your finish considerably.
“What is a clay bar and how does it work?”
Paint contamination consists of tiny metal shavings from rail dust, brake dust and industrial fallout. This contamination affects all paint finishes. Paint contamination can be felt as a “rough or gritty” texture on the paint’s surface and can lead to tiny rust spots. This contamination can not be removed by washing, waxing and/or polishing. There are three major causes of paint contamination:
1. Rail dust – produced from the friction of train wheels against railroad tracks. Over 70% of new vehicles are shipped by rail. Rail dust can contaminate a new car’s finish before it even reaches the dealership. Anytime a vehicle is parked or travels near a railroad it is subject to rail dust contamination.
2. Brake dust – particles produced from the friction of brake pads rubbing against the rotor. This metal on metal friction disperses tiny particles of bare metal into the air and on the highway where it collects on passing vehicles.
3. Industrial fallout – another word for pollution, industrial fallout is a byproduct of our modern industrial age.
Clay bars will not remove scratches, swirls, dull, oxidized paint or restore surface gloss. This is accomplished by polishing the surface after claying. Polishing alone will not remove paint contamination. After claying the surface, you have two options. If the vehicle’s paint is in like-new condition (good paint gloss and no swirls), you can finish by applying your favorite wax or paint sealant. If the finish shows any swirls or lacks luster, polish with a swirl remover or finishing polish and then apply a final coat of wax or paint sealant.
Clay will not remove paint or the clear coat finish. It can be used as often as necessary to keep the surface free of contamination and smooth. Always apply a protective coat of wax or paint sealant after claying the surface.
(Information on claybars and charts from properautocare.com)
“How often should I wash, wax or Polish?”
The easy answer to this question is “As Necessary.” If its dirty from daily driving I would wash it. I would wash and WAX every 6 weeks. I would have a full detail done with clay bar and polish two times a year.
This is assuming the above vehicle is your daily driver. For the garage kept trophy car I would simply use the “as necessary” rule.
***A few strong words of caution:
Florida has horrible bugs in the summer time. The WORST thing you can do for your car/wallet is to let these dead bugs sit on your paint. The enzymes in their bodies break down after they are dead and turn basically to acid. In a week early signs of etching and pitting can be seen in your clear coat. After a month or sooner you will notice holes in your clear coat. Next time you are in a parking lot, notice the front of a lot of cars, you will see it. There is no buffing these etching marks out!! Only sanding and re-spraying of your clear coat will fix it.
Same thing goes for bird droppings. Consider them acid bombs on your paint. When left on your paint it will do irreversible damage to your finish.
Lastly we have brake dust. Most luxury cars have soft brake pads for comfort. The downside to that is they dust A LOT. Brake dust that sits on rims for weeks or months at a time also eat away at the protective finish of rims, cause pitting in chrome and becomes a stain after too long.
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