Spray In Bed Liners

Posted by: on June 5th, 2013 | Filed Under: Jeep and Truck Bedliners, Uncategorized

As a Jeep and off-road enthusiast I find myself doing many projects outside of detailing that would preserve and enhance the function of a jeep or truck. I’ve done quite a few spray in bed liner projects for jeeps and trucks. I currently am the exclusive bed liner contractor for Happy Traills 4×4 in Atlantic Beach.

There are many liners out there all with different textures, chemistry and quality. When looking for a liner you want a material that is UV stable. Meaning it won’t fade, crack and turn chalky after a year or so in the Florida sun. The material I use is a 2 part urethane mixture that is UV stable and can be tinted to match your factory color or any color for that matter if you do not want black.

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Its LONG lasting and dramatically improves the appearance of your truck or Jeep. This can also be used to spray rocker panels, bumpers, or any part you wish.

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The key to any liner job is in the prep work. The surface MUST be scuffed just enough to where the shine of the factory paint is gone. That is to facilitate mechanical adhesion helping the material bond to the surface. This also removes any dirt, grease, grime or other that gets in the way of the material bonding to your vehicle.
As you can see on this 4 door jeep Rubicon extra prep was performed to remove the factory floor insulation. The shiny clear coat was scuffed down, and cleaned with acetone to remove any dust, oil, wax, grease or contaminants. Any bare metal is treated with self etching primer before spraying.

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Here is another example on a YJ Wrangler. Before and after.

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Here is a TJ Wrangler after sanding, cleaning, taping.

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Afterwards the vehicle is carefully prepped with plastic to prevent any over spray.

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As you can see, absolutely no shortcuts are taken in a job like this. All hardware is removed, door pins and latches removed, all serviceable bolts removed. Golf tees are placed in empty bolt holes to prevent overspray into the threads.

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This is also a good time to add a detail package to the job. You’d be surprised how much more debris and dirt you can remove from seats and consoles once they are removed.

The same high level of prep work is done to trucks as well as jeeps.

About the product I use:

Most material that bed liner shops use range from thick rubbery compounds to epoxy mixtures. Some are hard some are softer. The material I use is a 2 part urethane mixture that dries hard. It is UV stable meaning it won’t fade or crack in the sun.

All liners are susceptible to wear and tear over the years. If you require a heavy duty coat of liner it is available or a different product for super heavy duty applications are available. For the average owner the regular application will give you years of service and look like new.
Email, text or call anytime to discuss your custom liner project!

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Sample of Swirl Marks

Posted by: on September 16th, 2010 | Filed Under: Samples of Work

Before and After

As you can see above, swirl marks greatly reduce the appearance of your finish as well well as diminish the gloss. These results are from POLISHING the paint with a machine. This process takes time and patience. This service is not included on a basic detail and is priced based on size of vehicle, severity of the defect, and estimated time. After the paint is repaired a good coat of wax or sealant is applied for protection.

After Swirl Removal

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Black Wrangler Hood Restore

Posted by: on March 22nd, 2010 | Filed Under: Just My Jeep..., Samples of Work

Yes this is my vehicle. My beloved Jeep. It’s been very good to me and I haven’t been as good to it as I should. I put sweat and love into everyone else’s cars but not mine. (Hey you don’t get paid to polish your own ride!)

This vehicle is 5 years old and the hood has been through a lot. Beach sand, off roading through woods, Florida sun with no protection. It has a few spots of clear coat cracking and I plan on sanding it down and having the hood resprayed. There’s also some gouges in the finish that has been coated with touch up paint that are still visible.

I used a high speed buffer and a Dual Action Polisher along with foam and wool pads and different cuts of Menzerna Polish. The color is now rich and deep and swirl free. I might reconsider that repsraying for a while! :-)

I topped the hood with 3M Marine wax. This stuff is TOUGH! It has to be to withstand salt water. I noticed while waxing a boat with it how shiny it was and how the water beaded on my HANDS after getting some on them! Among other things. Its a new theory I’m testing out, (using boat wax on vehicles.) I’ll keep you posted on how it works and how long it lasts compared to other waxes I’ve used.

:-)

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Porsche Carrera 4S: Basic Detail with Deluxe Wheel Clean

Posted by: on March 16th, 2010 | Filed Under: Samples of Work, Wheel Care

Here’s a Porsche I take care of regularly. It was pretty dirty! But being that it is well taken care of and garage kept, clean up is fairly easy and only a basic detail is needed most of the time.

The wheels and calipers were extra dirty so a Deluxe Wheel Clean was performed on each wheel. I recommend this service on all sports cars or vehicles with premium or after market rims for a few reasons; first, you can not properly clean the caliper without removing the wheel in most cases. They don’t paint it a bright color and tag it with “Porsche” (or whatever else) just so it can sit filthy in plain view. Another reason is that the wheel fills out 99% of the wheel well. Removing the wheel gives you a chance to properly clean the wheel well and inspect the wear of the tire.

Lastly, as you can see below, you cant not clean the entire wheel with it on the car. Most of these types of cars have an extremely wide wheel, and cleaning only half of it looks pretty bad.

These are all AFTER pictures. Notice the rims and the bright calipers.

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Red Ford F-150

Posted by: on March 13th, 2010 | Filed Under: Samples of Work

Heres a recent detail. This is a client of mine that is extremely rough on her vehicle. Animals are transported almost daily in this vehicle and it gets pretty dirty inside and out. Unfortunately most of the outside “before” shots do not show just how dirty it was except the wheel shots. Interior shots will have to be re-shot next time.

Before: Notice the bad trim, the dirty wheels…

After:

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Engine Detail

Posted by: on March 12th, 2010 | Filed Under: Engine Detailing

Heres a few shots of an engine I detailed. It wasnt nessisarily that dirty, but definately benefited from a good cleaning.

Amazing Roll off and a scrub brush was used to to clean the grime, rinsed with a high pressure low volume sprayer, dried with a towel and an air compressor, and dressed with Meguiars Hyper dressing. Leaves a nice sheen without the greasy feel.

Before:

After:

Before:

Engine After:

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Deluxe Wheel Cleaning

Posted by: on March 9th, 2010 | Filed Under: Wheel Care

Todays post will serve a few functions: I wanted to showcase a few great products that I feel work very well, I wanted to clean the spare tire on my jeep :-) and I wanted to show what a difference a deluxe wheel cleaning can make.

I had about 70K miles on this rim before it got moved to the spare tire position. It has sat there for about 10 months. Now being that this is a jeep, cleaning the wheels seems a bit overkill but brake dust is bad for any wheel (I’ll show you why in a second) and since this is a spare tire that I get to see the inside of every time I open my tail gate, I just wanted to clean it up.

After I removed the tire, this is what the inside looked like:

Notice how the letters of the tire seem to blend into the dirty walls of the tire. Also that blue coating is STILL on there from when the tire was new.

I sprayed the whole tire down with Amazing Roll Off. (use the search bar at the top of the page for info on this product) After letting it sit for a few minutes I scrubbed every crack and surface with a few brushes. I had to rinse a few times and repeat. I also scrubbed the tire and hosed it down after. There were a few parts of the inner rim that were damaged by pitting. Thats when the brake dust sits on the surface for too long and begins to eat the metal. I used a drill and a wire wheel to scrub the brake dust off. On certain rims or chrome this would not have been an option, but being that these are uncoated on the inside it wasnt a big deal. This tire is from an off-road vehicle thats also a daily driver. If this method can tackle this level of filth and come out looking this good than it will work for any wheel.

Heres how the tire and rim cleaned up after the scrubbing:

That looks a lot better!

Now that the rim has been scrubbed and there is not more brake dust, its time to protect it with a quality wheel sealant. By using a wheel sealant future contaminants will bond to the sealant and not to the rim. Of course this isnt forever, just like wax or sealant on paint, but for a wheel that sits on the spare carrier it will do great.

I chose Poorboy’s World Wheel Sealant. A VERY good product and great company.

Applying a few light coats to the inside and outside of the rim, I mounted it back up on the carrier.

Look between the spokes. Instead of seeing brown you see nothing but silver. A subtle and huge difference at the same time.

Now that the wheel has been properly sealed its time to treat this nice tire since it sits in the same location in the sun.

Im using Ultima Trim and Tire Guard Plus to coat the tire. It will provide months of water beading protection and a little relief from the sun. Not to mention it makes the tire look NEW not “NEWly greased up.” Oh and YES it dries to the touch! No more greasy dirt magnet products!

Finished! Looks like brand new! This procedure can be done to any vehicle new or old at your request.

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2 Bucket Wash Method

Posted by: on March 6th, 2010 | Filed Under: Car Care Tips

Here’s a good walk-through on how to wash your vehicle to minimize swirls and scratches.

I make references to “the two bucket wash method” and some people don’t know what that is.This doesn’t take ANY more time than washing with one bucket, but it can GREATLY reduce the number of swirls and fine scratches your paint endures, and that nice swirl-free detail will last longer.

***Quick side note about soap. If you use household dish-washing soap you will strip every bit of wax off your paint. If you are looking to polish you vehicle this isn’t a bad thing. But if you are looking to just give your vehicle a maintenance wash between waxes I would suggest using a soap formulated for cars which is mild and wont strip the wax. The suds in auto soap are usually better and last longer and a half gallon can be purchased at almost ANY store for $5-$15 bucks. ***

Start with a clean bucket and fill it half way with water. Add a few ounces of car soap and then spray into the bucket until the suds fill the top. If you put the soap in first and then spray you will end up with about half a gallon of water and a bucket full of suds, and if you fill the bucket to the top with water you wont have enough room for suds and will be washing with just a wet mitt. So fill halfway with water, 2-3 ounces of soap, and the rest with suds.

The next bucket is just plain water. Fill it 2/3 full or more. (If you want to go the extra mile, you can pick up a Grit Guard from www.autogeek.net)


Now start with a clean wash mitt. This is personal preference. You can use a lambswool mitt (my favorite- it holds a LOT of suds and the fibers are gentle on your finish) a microfiber mitt or even foam mitts.

Dunk the mitt completely into the soapy water mix and do not wring it out. Start with the top of the vehicle (the least dirty part usually) and wash as normal. Do one panel at a time; the roof, the hood, the front corner panel, the door etc. After each panel submerge your now dirty mitt into the CLEAN water bucket with the grit guard. Press the mitt against the grit guard and scrub it a second or two. What this does is loosen the dirt thats trapped in the mitt. The dirt, which is heavier than water, will fall to the lower chambers below the grit guard. Unless you agitate the water forcefully the dirt will mostly stay at the bottom. Now pull the mitt out and wring it out GOOD. It should look cleaner than when you put it in the rinse bucket.


Re-submerge your mitt into the soapy water like before and wash another panel. Its not always possible to wash in complete shade, and dried suds on paint is a huge pain. After each section washed I would go ahead and rinse unless you are in complete shade.

Work your way down the vehicle with the mitt. You want to save the dirtiest parts for last to minimize the dirt from being transferred to less dirty areas and ground into the paint.

You want to save the wheels, wheel wells and tires for last, and NEVER use the mitt you wash your paint with on the wheels, tires and wheel wells. What I do is wash the wheels and tires first because the tire/wheel spray works best undiluted. Meaning if you spray on the wheels and tires DRY then 100% of the cleaner is working to remove the brake dust and grime which is hard enough to get off. Make sure you use a cleaner that is safe for ALL types of metal rims unless you know what kind of rims you have, then you can buy a cleaner specific to that metal whether it be chrome, aluminum or what not. Also you want to keep the cleaner away from your paint and other surfaces because some of these cleaners are very harsh.

Another product tip/suggestion is called Amazing Roll Off. You can purchase this from most boating stores or at www.autogeek.net. “Amazing Roll-Off is bio-degradable, non-corrosive, rust inhibiting and ecologically safe and 100% acid free.”

This stuff cleans better than ANY rim/tire/wheel cleaner I have EVER used! And it has SO many other uses: Convertible tops, engines, patio furniture, boats, vinyl etc.

Happy Washing!

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Mercedes Floor Mats

Posted by: on March 4th, 2010 | Filed Under: Carpets

Here’s a sample of the power of a hot water carpet extractor.

After a good vaccuum job this is what was left on the floor mats.

After pre-soaking the stains with a mild, non detergent spot cleaner, and using a few passes with the hot water extractor this is the finished product.

Another clean interior. No more coffee stains, leather grime or dirty carpets. A dressing with UV protection and a matte, factory-like sheen was used. All interior dressings I use are non-silicone based so there is never a greasy feel and no dirt and dust is attracted to the surfaces.

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Hard Water Etching Removal

Posted by: on March 4th, 2010 | Filed Under: Samples of Work

When rain, sprinklers and hose water fall onto glass, the water will eventually evaporate leaving a deposit of minerals on the surface of the glass. Like anything else that sits on auto surfaces too long, it will eventually etch itself on/in the glass. After trying to remove with clay bar, vinegar, and other tricks, water spots like those below are still there. You cant always see them unless in direct sunlight but they are there and they are unsightly. This window was washed and cleaned well before this picture was taken.

Using a cleaning Polish (Meguiars M04 Heavy Cut Cleaner Polish) and a Makita Rotary polisher with 2″ abrasive pads, these spots came off in a few short passes. Hours of elbow grease alone couldn’t yield these results. The entire back window was completely free of spots and looked like brand new glass. Unfortunately, lighting was not ideal to get a clear shot but here is a picture of a tape line so you can see side by side the difference in the window.

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